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    • CommentAuthorOuroboros
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2008 edited
     
    New York Times Dining Section article on Cointreau Spherification Kit
    Flickr photoset of the kit

    Bartenders at select NYC bar joints (including PDT, Death & Co, Angel’s Share, Employees Only) will be taught spherification technique and given a kit (priced at $1450) from Cointreau.

    Seems to be sodium alginate and calcium lactate (and gold flecks, for extra bling). The killer part is the dispenser-tool that would speed and simplify the dripping of the pearl-solution into the setting bath.

    Have any of us played with sodium alginate + calcium spherification?  (does anyone want to? I want to)
    Is this the apotheosis of the jello shot?
    Is caviar-ed liqueur a garnish or an ingredient?

    •  
      CommentAuthorTraderTiki
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2008
     

    At least it's not a foam.

    The thought comes to mind that they could make a visually interesting break in a Pousse Café, or as a garnish on food.

    David Arnold, the director of culinary technology at the French Culinary Institute, said, “There’s so much to be done with drinks that’s not being done that doesn’t involve tiny little balls.”

    That about sums up my feeling.

  1.  

    I've got all the necessary ingredients if anyone wants to come over and play. Its the same technique as Ferran Adria's soup "raviolis"

    • CommentAuthordshenaut
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2008
     

    At the Molecular Mixology event put on by Plymouth Gin and the USBG in SF last summer we all played with the stuff just after making foam. It was easy to produce enough for a few drinks at a time and each bartender was creative with shape, color, and flavor combonations. It struck me as whimsicle at the time taking much more energy to fashion each ball than it is worth.

    At the Maitre de Chai Dinner by Grey Goose dinner last month here in Portland we started with a bird-tini "served in an inovative fashion with Noilly Prat Original French Dry Vermouth jelly balls (err cube)." This ment that if we wanted the vermouth we could take a bite out of a big jelly then wash it down with Grey Goose. I tried to let the martini warm a bit to see if the jelly broke down. It didn't and had a warm bird-tini with a chunk of dry vermouth in the bottom of the glass. I would rather have my vermouth integrated because I like the lubrication it adds to my palate. Still, I see how it helps to keep the flavorless... well.. flavorless. In the dessert course we were served a "cinnamon flavored apple and pear oyster, created through molecular mixology" paired with a cocktail of the same flavor profile and ingrediants. About half of the people at the table took a little nibble of the jelly thing then passed, the rest didn't even try it.

    I think the caviar is a neet thing to try once, and we should consider it nothing more than a garnish. To leave an ingrediant out of a cocktail and replace it in the form of a tapioca shaped jelly is short-sighted  imo. I do think it would be cool to brake down a drink and serve the idividual liquors and syrups on the side of a cocktail in the caviar form to help a guest differenciate the complex ingrediants, but again this is for a set group of people in a controlled environment.

     Putting them on food as a garnish is a good idea and would make a pairing menu intersting.  Applewood Smoked Salmon and Campari Caviar over baby Arugula with balsalmic vin.  Paired with a Trident or a Negroni.

     

     

    •  
      CommentAuthoreje
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2008
     

    I know foams take a bad rap, but I really enjoy them as scent delivery vehicles.

    Make the Seapea fizz without egg whites, then add an egg white and tell me which is better.

    Seapea Fizz

    1 1/2 oz Absinthe or Substitute
    Juice 1/2 lemon
    (1 egg white)
    1 tsp caster sugar (scant if using a sweetened Absinthe Substitute)

    Shake ingredients for 10 seconds in dry shaker. Add large ice, shake well. Strain into glass and top up with soda water.

    Plus, there's the delightful texture it adds to the drink.

    Unfortunately, some of the more biochemistry oriented foams I've had have been less successful.  Xanthan Gums and the like.

    After a bit of time post mixing they sometimes break and just look weird and alien in the glass.

    This article is kind of cool:

    Eben Freeman Turns His Cocktails Solid Just For the Hell of It

  2.  

    I'll admit, I've never had a "molecular mixology" cocktail. That said, I have dined at Moto in Chicago and it blew my mind. I do think however that most of these techniques are better suited to food rather than drink. Still, any chance that I get to experiment and LEARN is a valuable experience in my book. Would I want a Cape Cod turned into "caviar" served in a shot glass garnished with a lime? Probably not. But if it stokes my creativity and makes me rethink some preconceptions that I already have about cocktails then thats a good thing.

     

    I should find a contact for Cointreau and request a kit for the OBG.

  3.  

    First of all, best post title ever. It may seem like I'm pandering a bit, but...

     

    Mr. Hess did a great couple of video segments on his site a while back about molecular mixology. One of the segments has Jamie Boudreau showing a simpler way to create a Violette Caviar with basic things you would find in a store.

     

    http://www.smallscreennetwork.com/video/26/molecular_mixology_aviation/

     

    On the subject of foams, I have to admit to having been quite intrigued by our very own Mr. Morganthaler's post last year using foam to deconstruct a Margarita.

     

    http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2007/margarita-with-cadillac-foam-and-sea-salt/

     

    I think the problem with "molecular x" is that most people inherently see it as a novelty, and a novelty is only a novelty until everybody is doing it. I would argue though that it may have a stronger position in the realm of cocktails, because more people now are viewing them as a culinary subject. As such people are more interested in the aroma, texture and appearance of their drinks which is an area that molecular mixology can shine.

     

    Or it could be I'm overthinking things.

    • CommentAuthorOuroboros
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2008
     

    Thanks for pointing out that video, boozemonkey. However a gelatin caviar is a single texture whereas a sodium alginate caviar is a thin shell of (let's call it) gel around a liquid interior (depending on the size of the sphere).

    The isolation of an ingredient from the rest of a drink more-or-less makes it a garnish, doesn't it? the equivalent of a lime wedge meant to be set aside or squeeze by the drinker.

    I'd be intrigued by a (large-ish) sphere of creme de violette at the bottom of an aviation (or would the specific gravity cause it to float? we need more science), the option of sundering it to bring that flavor into play or leaving it to the end.

    •  
      CommentAuthorTraderTiki
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2008
     

    I'm amused by what comes of this experimentation, but it doesn't seem to add anything beyond novelty to the cocktail.  Well, that and a lot more prep time, equipment, expense, training, et cetera.  It could be a good thing, but I feel it's being played out wrong.  The advancements in MM seem directed more towards what we can do, than WHY we do it.  Sure, we can gelatinize liqueurs, or setup garnish in caviar form, but what does this add to the experience of the drink?  A Grand Marnier foam may be nice, but I'd put dollars to donuts a spritz of orange oil will top it as a nose on the drink.

    For myself, I still feel like I'm catching up on hundreds of years of the craft, so advancing from the bottom rung to a ladder in a parallel dimension (though it may be a pot of daffodils there) doesn't jive with me.

    Something else that's bugged me about the term Molecular Mixology are those that have been coined Molecular Mixologists, though contributing little than a foam recipe here or there.  For me it's similar to where I've heard unless you're working at El Bulli, you're not really a Molecular Gastronomist.

    Really, there's a bit of science that's missing for me.  Just like McGee can discern why cream is so luxuriously textured to our palate, I want to know why the droplets of Cointreau would appeal to my palate.  If the term's going to be "Molecular", I want to know what's going on in the Molecular level, dag nabbit!

    I've got a whole uneducated, rambling drunken rant up in there somewhere, and I will admit to owning a Nitro whipper and being just a bit curious how a Fog Cutter would do with a Sherry Foam.  Because if you can't contradict yourself, you can.

    • CommentAuthordshenaut
    • CommentTimeMar 14th 2008
     

     

    I agree that egg whites make for amazing cocktails but again they are fully intergrated into the finished product. Maybe I am short-sighted and would like to see more people making the Classic Cocktails Cosistantly Correct first before adding this wacked out style. Then again when the shoe with the little zipper for your lunch money came out I had a pair ( I had to take my shoes off in line everyday before I stopped using the pocket)

    Perhaps we should do a hands on  molecular mixology event much like the one I went to in SF. I have Bridgeport Brewing chomping at the bit to host an event at their place. We do a beer tour and tasting then play with foam, dry ice, "Xanthan Gums and the like" for a bit.

  4.  

    David, those shoes were Kangaroos and I'll have you know that Walter Payton wore them in the NFL.

     

    As for a molecular event, I'm open to the idea, once we know what the hell we're doing.

  5.  

    I'm not a fan of MM, as many know, but hell, I even eschew most garnishes to a fault.  It's not even that I see it as a trend, but I firmly believe in a well-integrated cocktail, & the notion of layers/foams/jelly balls simply strikes me as counter-intuitive in building a drink.

    That said, I am & have been interested in having the Guild host a seminar on just this topic.  I've already begun initial conversations w/ Plymouth to host one for us in the summertime as they did in SF.  & this is something I force myself to remember; just because something is not to my taste, it would be extremely arrogant to feel it is w/o value, or something that we can't learn from w/ experimentation. 

    & I never did a cardamom-sage-balsamic foam, Jeff; whoever told you that was mistaking me for somebody else.

    •  
      CommentAuthorjeffmorgen
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2008
     
    Lance, please.
  6.  

    I talked to someone who has this little gadget, and she told me a few interesting things about it.

    1) While it is supposed to be used for making "caviar", the size of the pearls can be adjusted on the machine

    2) the sodium alginate bath these pearls are released into must be changed frequently, otherwise, the pearls develop a pronounced salty flavor

    3) the machine comes with a warning label attached. she couldn't remember what specifically it said, but she told me that it basically warns you not to consume too may of the pearls.

     

    She told me that it was a fun toy, but little use in her bar.