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Discussion at Reynoles' Galley the other afternoon touched on how to figure out quickly if the man behind the bar is worth your time or if you'll be happier asking for only a beer and a shot. Hand-in-hand with that thread on bars, let's talk about red flags and ill omens. Hell, mention anything that inspires trust.
I generally feel safer ordering a real cocktail if I don't spot any DeKuyper products lurking behind the bar.
I mentioned at the galley that my personal test is a Manhattan. When it comes back super dry (as if one were making a bourbon martini), I'll call highballs.
I love however, when the odd bartender seems to get a flash of relief when I ask for a classic drink, or try to talk liquor. That's when I'm wrapped around his/her finger.
Personally, I peruse the specials card looking for too many brand names of mediocre or bad liquor mentioned too prominently. And then I generally set the specials card aside. I survey the bottles for Campari, then Chartreuse.
After all that ritual, I order a Manhattan and suffer for the number of cherries that come in it.
But even seeing a target good bottle isn't enough sometimes. I was at the Dunes, and the tap jerk couldn't find the two bottles of Campari that were directly across from my seat, after I called the ingredients for a Negroni. And I was at the Townhouse once and asked for anything made with the bottle of Chartreuse VEP, and the bartender handed me a bible and offered to mix anything I found in it (which was the Bijou, and was fabulous).
What is in the well? A bartender who cares about efficiency has the most used spirits in her reach. A bartender who has Luxardo, Pisco, or a quality vermouth at her fingers is a dream. Are there books behind the bar? what are they? Do they have dust all over them? What tools are present? Is there "mise en place"? What drinks are others imibibing?
Matthew, kudos on the thread & the title. I've used the term shibboleth for years, & have found that usually the term itself serves as a sort of shibboleth.
I had this exact coversation w/ Christiaan from House Spirits on our opening night. His answer was daiquiri, & I've really come to see the virtue of that response; it's an easy way to gauge the preferred level of sweetness or even historical accuracy for one of the true basics (sorry to all I missed the event on Sunday; my heart was there, but my lungs were in hell).
But for me the true shibboleth has always been The Immortal Sazerac. I'm not a total purist here, & don't mind deviations. I think how a bartender strays from the strictest of paths helps to illuminate their personal style remarkably. But 95% of the time (& I think I'm being generous here), the cipher with the keys to all that booze has never heard of the drink, & I'll probably play it uber-safe, bourbon on the rocks or even manhattan w/ some instruction. The other 5% will make wildly different interpretations; but that will only help me to gauge their personal palate, & so help me find our lingua franca.
I agree with David on the caliber of their well, but that often relies on the bar manager; & some of the best bartenders are stuck underneath philistines.
Oh, & if they're wearing a sweatband, I'll most likely just look for the nearest exit.
Trying to put these thing into practice (without thought) this evening I realized how far we have already come. During a simple dining expereince with my family I aked the waitress, who was also the bartender, "What do you like?".
She replied "I don't play that game." So I just ordered a rye Manhattan. It was good, I drank it.
She returned after my Manhattan was gone and asked about my next drink. I said, "I noticed you have Plymouth Gin behind the bar...what kind of Sweet Vermouth do you carry?" My intentions were to ask if she could make me a Martinez, hey....it's what I was in the mood for. I was happy to help her with the process. Some people enjoy this...I personally have to problem making specific drinks that other people like that I don't know how to make.
She replied "Do you know what you're doing?".
I said back "I'll have a vodka martini."
Not only is the selection in the well, but the alcohols the bar carries in general often relies on the management. I have asked many a manager to add a few additions without luck. I even have offered to pay for the first bottle. At the last bar I was employed at, I was told that there wasn't any room. At that I offered to make up a drink/specials menu utilizing some of the alcohols that mostly were just sitting there collecting dust so as to clear out a few spaces. I was told that the bar had enough things on it and it would just clutter it up more. I realized how futile my efforts were and gave up.
The same goes for the "mise en place." The three
bars I have tended were not designed by someone who has been behind a
bar. While I was able to arrange things a bit better when I was the
only one working, I still wasn't able to do much with the overall
design. From having to where I had to make a loop around the bar to
make drinks because things were so spread out, to there barely being
enough room for two people to pass, a lot of bars are not made with efficiency in mind.
As to the question of what the other patrons are drinking, a lot of
people have their one drink and that's all they order. I enjoyed it
when a customer would order a proper martini (not a glass of chilled
vodka with no vermouth), or would ask me for a suggestion. Just
because other people don't realize what great drinks are to be had
doesn't mean the bartender doesn't know how to make them or won't be
willing to try their hardest to make that drink for you.
Wait, sweatbands don't make you cooler?
It can be hard to peek in the well. And I don't want to be the guy who asks after the house bourbon or gin and chooses a drink or picks a bottle on the wall for his pour. I'm abrasive enough without trying to pester. Is there a good subtle trick to this, aside from observation?
My greatest ill-omen, is when the bartender has unusually long fake nails.
God know whats under those talons
Mise en place to me can be anything from build of well to clean garnish trays, towls and tools constantly put in their place. It is immdiatly obvious to me if a bar keep takes ownership of his/her space. When it is your space on your shift move things to fit you. If you share a well or rotate in and out of a well it takes a bit more thought and energy but the efficiancy during a rush makes it all worth while. If everything has it's place and is in it's place the professional bartender works in a fluid motion and is cleaning continuously. A sloppy bar is a sure sign of a sloppy drink.This may not be a sign as to their abilty to make a Trident or a Tipperary to perfection but at least they take the job seriously.
What ever happened to the dialogue that should take place between a host and guest? Isn't this the only true way to order a cocktail.
If I'm going to an unknown place, I usually ask if there is a house special, or anything the bartender has been looking forward to making. It can be a bit of an icebreaker with the barkeep, and lets me know whether it's high class or highballs for my visit.
If there's a menu with household ingredients, I like to inquire about the makings, talk recipes, etc.
I'm not often judgmental about what's behind the bar, but pretty much always scope the place out for a good selection of rums, how many flavored vodkas, and any fancy-schmancies available.
A lot of the "good" jobs here are taken by veteran bartenders who have stopped the learning process altogether and are merely pushing out the same vodka drinks and infusion jars they've been doing for the past 10 years. Which leaves bartenders eager to explore bartending as a craft and/or culinary art left to schlep PBR and Apple Martinis for the thirsty masses. I got lucky and received some breaks while I climbed up from jobs working in taverns and nightclubs.
It scares me how many career bar managers have never read a book about the job they spend 40+ hours a week performing.
At one of my jobs, I would get on the case of my co-workers (including my manager) about putting glass bottles in the ice or (worse) scooping ice using the glass. No matter how many times I told them how dangerous it was, no one would pay attention. One time after telling the manager she shouldn't use the glass to scoop the ice because it could chip (the scoop was in the well, just waiting to be used), she told me, "I've never had it happen."
I think part of the reason my co-workers didn't believe me was because i was the youngest. I had a couple of them tell me how I could learn a lot from them and how they had been bartending for so many years. I have no problem learning from other people because I know there is still a lot for me to learn, and I don't think anyone will ever know everything about bartending, I get a bit skeptical about someone's advise when I see them doing such things as using a glass to scoop ice with.
I agree with Jeff that a lot of managers/owners don't know much about the job they are doing. I have been in many bars that were obviously designed by someone who had never worked behind a bar. Unfortunately, it seems like they are the majority, at least in the Eugene area. Then they end up hiring young bartenders who are just starting out who learn bad habits and then take those on to other places where they teach them to other young bartenders. Some of them are hopefully like me who read and did my own research and found out some of my bad habits were not the norm and was able to change them. I like the nightclub atmosphere but when I want a good drink, they aren't my first choice. One of the closest places I have found in Eugene is the Davis Club. Hopefully they will start a trend of good drinks with a nightclub feel.
Sounds like a plan. What is your least busy night?
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